A Tourist’s Guide to Charleston

My hometown of Charleston, SC has been one of the nation’s top tourist destinations for years, and for good reason. The mid-size coastal city boasts beautiful rivers and beaches, charming cobblestone streets lined with pastel shotgun style houses and historic churches, along with a warm hospitable nature. I would recommend visiting the city to any foodie, nature lover or sightseer. Every now and again, I even enjoy playing tourist in my own city.

So, as an introduction to the city, I thought I would compile a basic guide to the different areas of Charleston to serve as a geographical breakdown. Starting off with a simple Charleston vocabulary:

• CHS- abbreviation for Charleston
• IOP- Isle of Palms
• The Ravenel- refers to The Ravenel Bridge that connects Mt Pleasant to downtown CHS
• DI- Daniel Island

Downtown Charleston

The hotspot and center of the city, downtown Charleston is what most people think of when they picture the city. The peninsula is the site of the famous Rainbow Row, waterfront park nicknamed The Battery, market and Pineapple Fountain. It is defined by many unique and charming sights and sounds – the picturesque old cobblestone streets, traditional shotgun style narrow homes, historic churches whose steeples mark the skyline, and the click-clack sound of horse hooves from the horse-drawn carriages. Look up as you wander its historic streets and alleyways. It’s actually a rule in Charleston that no building can be taller than the tallest church steeple — that of St. Matthews Lutheran Church. So instead of skyscrapers, we have church steeples, which I actually much prefer.

Here are some of my downtown Charleston recommendations based on different niches and interests:

• For the seafood lover: try oysters at highly-rated oyster bars such as The Darling Oyster Bar, Rappahannock Oyster Bar and my personal favorite- 167 Raw Oyster Bar (they also have a phenomenal sushi bar, 167 Sushi, that I have been dying to go to). Note that quite a few places do not take reservations. Simply arrive when they open, put your name down and wander to a nearby bar for a cocktail while you wait for your table.
• For the cocktail lover: Try Bourbon N’ Bubbles, the top of The Dewberry hotel, Felix (close to Bourbon N’ Bubbles), Prohibition and my mom and I’s favorite- the basement “speakeasy” of Brasserie La Banque, which we stumbled upon by accident.
• For the sweet tooth: A local homemade ice cream shop with amazing vegan options and artisan flavors — Off Track, but also try Kaminsky’s Dessert Cafe and Carmella’s Cafe and Dessert Bar.
• For the photographer: Rainbow Row, the Pineapple Fountain, Broad Street, Church Street, The Battery, Marion Square, the old cigar factory which has been renovated and now houses Rappahannock Oyster Bar, Mercantile & Mash and the Garden & Gun Magazine office.
• For the off-the-beaten path lover: Mrs. Whaley’s Garden, The Gateway Walk (this includes various cemeteries and gardens, created by The Garden Club of Charleston in 1930), Hampton Park, The Citadel campus.

Sullivan’s Island and Isle of Palms

I’m combining these two beaches together because despite being different, they are actually connected geographically and within a five minute drive of each other. My personal favorite is Sullivan’s Island, I’ve always felt that it’s more local and less crowded. But both can be very crowded during the summer months, depending on when you go.

My biggest piece of advice for Sullivan’s is to go as early as possible because parking can be challenging during the summer and holidays. Unlike Isle of Palms, which offers parking lots for a fee, Sullivan’s is entirely residential. This means attempting to street park in front of houses with wheels off the pavement, in designated zones, and making sure to not be blocking driveways. Residents will absolutely have something to say if these rules aren’t followed, and I can’t really blame them. My family has also gotten tickets before from not adhering to these rules and it’s caused a lot of huffing and puffing.

You didn’t hear it from me but on Isle of Palms, if you park in the Simmons Seafood lot and discreetly walk to the beach, you (not 100% chance but high) likely won’t get caught. But just what I heard from a friend…

• Sullivan’s TL;DR: go early to park and if street parking doesn’t look promising, try parking in the Sullivan’s Island Elementary School lot, but only if school isn’t in session (i.e weekends). Try lunch and frosé at The Co-Op (also on IOP and other locations in CHS), cocktails and coastal cuisine at The Longboard, barbecue and Gamechangers (trust) at Home Team BBQ, or dinner at the more elegant The Obstinate Daughter. Right below is also one of my favorite ice cream places — Beardcat’s. For escaping the crowds, head more to Station 18 or even further up, or as far as possible in the opposite direction . If you’re planning on bringing a dog, make sure to check out the strict rules to avoid fines.
• IOP TL;DR: Follow the above parking advice, also check out The Co-Op IOP location, The Windjammer schedule for concerts on the beach and breakfast at Sea Biscuit Cafe. Unlike Sullivan’s, IOP has public bathrooms so make sure to utilize those. Walking away from the main beach entrance by the parking lots (and unfortunately the bathrooms) may be an escape to the crowded areas.

Mt Pleasant

Mt Pleasant makes up a large section of Charleston, a lot of which is residential. It’s situated in between Daniel Island, Sullivan’s and IOP and stretches far up Hwy 17. Eventually the highway runs into Chuck Dawley Blvd which then continues and turns into Coleman Blvd, parallel to Hwy 17.

Mt Pleasant has so many restaurants and cute cafes, it’s hard just to list my favorites. It also does have some notable attractions for tourists that are worth visiting, so don’t simply drive through the area to get to other places without stopping. Here is my breakdown:

• For the foodie: one of my favorite local pizza places out of a food truck with an adorable outdoor seating area, which also makes great salads— Coastal Crust — and don’t blow by it’s cute neighbor, the local Vintage Coffee Cafe or across the street at Brown Fox Coffee. For Mediterranean health conscious food, try Kid Cashew. For good ole Southern comfort food in a super casual setting, drive further up to Seewee Restaurant. Check out Square Onion and/or Community Table in the charming neighborhood of I’On. And on a hot day, try my favorite chain snowball place (but they are not a local chain, they’re from New Orleans), Pelican’s SnoBalls.
• For the nature lover: Possibly my favorite boardwalk in Charleston and place to watch the sunsets — Shem Creek. Walk along the boardwalk and try to spot dolphins or manatees and catch a bite to eat at one of the waterside restaurants after, Tavern & Table is a favorite. Another favorite of mine that does rival that of Shem Creek — Pitt Street Bridge in the homey historic neighborhood of Old Village is also great for sunsets, fishing and simply relaxing. Further up the highway lies The Birds of Prey Center, which focuses on bird education, rehabilitation and research.
• For the history nerd: Boone Hall Plantation is one of Charleston’s old plantations that offers public admission and is well-preserved. Visiting any of the various Charleston area plantations can certainly be educational and eye-opening for someone interested in the dark history of slavery in the south and plantation culture in particular. Boone Hall has restored slave quarters, which openly exhibit the perspective of slave life during the 19th century. The quaint and charming Old Village neighborhood also has a few historic landmarks and stores, like the Pitt Street Pharmacy, which feels like stepping back in time. Patriots Point Naval & Maritime Museum allows visitors to tour a retired Naval aircraft and learn about American military and naval history interactively.

Daniel Island

My neighborhood and lovely little island. DI is mostly residential but does have some beautiful places to walk and sightsee, as well as restaurants and cafes. It can also be walked entirely in an hour, more or less (and depending on your walking speed, me personally, I like to speed walk like I’m being chased by a wild animal for no reason). The island also offers a ferry service to downtown CHS, which is perfect if you want to skip rush hour traffic or just driving altogether. Here are my highlights of DI:

• If you’re into walking, running, biking or hot girl walking (as my mom and I call ours), definitely check out the trail along the water on the north side of the island. You can find it by entering behind the Daniel Island Recreation center and continuing past the tennis courts for scenic views and a nice river breeze. Stop for a quick treat or smoothie at The Dime, an adorable cafe which also serves pizza, salad and sandwiches until close.
• Enjoy beautiful waterfront views with a cocktail in hand at The Kingstide, and then a delicious seafood meal. If you aren’t a seafood fan, you can still enjoy some of the restaurants various other offerings.
• Check out the concert schedule at Credit One Stadium, they frequently host country artists and some occasional big names. If you’re visiting in April during the week of the Credit One Open, a womens-only tennis tournament, you should absolutely check it out, even if you aren’t a tennis fan. The tournament has a great outdoor atmosphere with tons of local vendors, shopping and great vibes.
• If you have kids and are big park-goers, check out the small but fun Governor’s Park (mainly for the zip line), Smythe Park and Pirate Park.
• If you simply just enjoy ogling at pretty houses like my mom and I do, take a stroll on Captain’s Island, a newly developed area with brand new construction, quiet and great views of the water.

North Charleston

North Charleston is a term that encompasses the northern section of the peninsula and suburban neighborhoods of the downtown area. Over the years, it has grown more developed and in turn, become the home of many up and coming restaurants and stores. It’s also where the Charleston International Airport is.

• Park Circle is a neighborhood that is quickly becoming a local hot spot, with a few rows of up-and-coming restaurants and cafes. Try my family’s favorite — EVO Pizzeria for fresh salads and pizza, Jackrabbit Filly, The CODfather, The Tattooed Moose and The Junction Kitchen & Provisions for breakfast.

West Ashley

While West Ashley, the chunk of land to the west of downtown, might not be considered a typical tourist destination, I would argue that it is well worth the journey, especially given its proximity to the heart of Charleston. I’ll once again break it down to make it easy.

• For the nature lover: Charles Towne Landing State Historic Site, Stono River Intercoastal Waterway Scenic Overlook at DuPont, Higgins Pier
• For the foodie: The Glass Onion for locally-sourced comfort food, Boxcar Betty’s for classic Southern breakfast, Ye Ole Fashioned Ice Cream to experience a local ice cream chain with a retro interior, Swig & Swine for barbecue

James Island

Like West Ashley, James Island is also a short drive from downtown CHS. The island, which lies slightly south of downtown, is mostly residential but does harbor some great restaurants and activities to try out. Here is how I would break down the island for a tourist:

• For the adventure spirit: Wild Blue Ropes Adventure Park, The Climbing Wall at James Island County Park, Splash Zone Waterpark
• For the foodie: El Pollo Guapo, Bohemian Bull, Edison James Island and Mondo’s

John’s Island

John’s Island, which lies further south of downtown and West Ashley, is still one of the least developed and busy islands in the area especially being one of the farthest, but that is changing as more and more people move to Charleston. The island is home to a few historic landmarks and still offers some fun activities that are worth checking out.

• The famous Angel Oak Tree is a must-see.
• There are several equestrian centers for those interested in horseback rides, with beaches and trails as backdrops.
• Stono County River Park and Charleston Aqua Park are two family-fun options to enjoy the nature of the lowcountry.

Folly Beach

I’ll be honest, I have gone to Folly Beach maybe twice. It’s around 45 minutes from DI and it doesn’t really make sense for me to go when there are two perfectly nice beaches within a 20 minute drive. But from my short-lived experiences there and as a local, I know that Folly is a surfer hot-spot filled with a bustling young crowd and beachy bars and restaurants. I also know that the pier which stretches out is a highlight of the beach and undoubtedly pretty at sunrise and sunset. But my knowledge of this beach really ends there and I think I’ll leave it to other locals to give recommendations and the lowdown.

Kiawah Island and Edisto Island

These neighboring islands are the farthest from where I am but definitely some of the most beautiful in the Charleston area. I would venture to say they take the top spot actually. Kiawah features a highly rated oceanfront hotel and golf course. My mom and I have been dying to spend a day at their luxurious spa for ages but just haven’t wanted to bite the very expensive bullet. I’ve actually never been to Edisto before but have heard it is peaceful and blooming with coastal wildlife. I’ll go ahead and breakdown Kiawah, since I’ve visited a few times now and am more familiar.

• Rent bikes to ride on the beach or on one of the many bike paths.
• Explore the island outdoor shopping mall — Freshfields Village — and look up events such as the farmer’s market or live music to attend.
• The public state-run beach — Beachwalker Park — goes 10 miles long and includes lifeguards, a snack bar and chair, umbrella and boogie board rentals during the summer months.

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